With it being my third trip leaving the mainland to Hong
Kong in the space of six months, you’d think that I’d be bored of that
sprawling multi-island metropolis by now… this is not the case.
Sky-scrapers pierce the jungle-clad hills and the skies with
their blazing neon lights at night while the world-famous Star Ferry
criss-crosses across Victoria Harbour probably providing the one of the world’s
best-value cruises. Meanwhile, the locals tuck into their dim sum and slurp on their milk tea in what has to be one of the
world’s greatest food cities. Add to this the jingling sound of the
“ding-dings” carting up and down Hong Kong Island and it starts to feel like a
shot of adrenaline to the system that quickens the pulse in this little
metropolitan, abuzz with sound, island paradise. Hong Kong has so many little
hidden gems waiting to be found by the not-so weary traveller that another
week’s stay is still not enough time! My third-round bout with the once-British
colony came with an extra treat; I was joining my parents there and seeing them
there for the first time in over a year (barring the odd Skype call at
Christmas and birthdays).
(Grins all round in
front of the Ruins of St. Pauls in Macau)
Without rehashing upon old memories of HK from my previous
trips - I’m looking
at you jīdànzǎi 鸡蛋仔 (egg waffles], “silk stocking"
milk tea and that sweet mouth-watering guǎngdōngcài
(Cantonese or Guangdong cuisine) which was a much-needed break and escape for
my taste buds (and bowels) from that spicy culinary cousin back in Sichuan
province.
We stayed in the quieter area of Aberdeen, in Southern district,
away from the hustle and bustle of downtown Central and Admiralty. This was a
welcome change this time around being able to see another side of Hong Kong
culture and way of life; the crack of dawn fishing boats coming in and out of
Aberdeen harbour. (Fun fact: Bruce Lee’s Kung-Fu masterpiece Enter the Dragon was filmed in and
around Aberdeen town!) Only venturing into the city centre for a spot of
afternoon tea at The Peninsula… if only our wallets could afford that!
(Wining
and dining at The Peninsula…..)
*
Further around the coast from Aberdeen is the quaint little
seaside of Stanley. You can aimlessly spend the whole day there; it’s very easy
to forget you’re in Hong Kong (one of the most densely populated areas in the
world) let alone Asia! Stanley transports you a multitude of countries and
continents to the picturesque seaside towns on the English coastline; complete
with squawking seagulls, beach front pubs and cafes, and most importantly ice
cream! (Add to that, the bright-red sunburn I got cleverly thinking that I
wouldn’t need sun cream in November – cue a nice and hot summer’s day!)
I could have easily stayed in Stanley for the duration of the trip
(and relaxed with a few ice cold bevvies and a book on the beach in nearby
Repulse Bay) as it was this sense of escapism, from work, from Chinese culture
and the longing for home, that I desperately needed and craved.
(You could
easily mistake this for Whitby or Scarborough, but probably not Skegness…)
*
Macau, the once Portuguese-controlled colony had been a
destination that had eluded me in my previous trips to H.K. and I had persuaded
my parents that the short and, I reassured them, calm 40-50 minute oat journey
across the Pearl River Delta was well worth the effort. (I was just guessing at
this and fortunately it was pretty smooth, and despite the grumbles from my
dad, he actually enjoyed his day in Macau!)
The mainland Chinese can’t get enough of this once
Portuguese-administered backwater-turned-gambling megaresort that it’s now even
referred to as the Vegas of the East (or maybe Las Vegas should hand over its
title and be called the Macau of the West!), but the city has more than just casinos. Macau does everything
better - even with it being the most densely populated region in the world - with its hybrid of fortresses and churches that evoke the style of it former Portuguese masters, integrated with Chinese temples and shrines. There’s definitely an almost claustrophobic feel on the northern island
(Macau Peninsula) with its narrow Mediterranean freguesias and streets, which atop sits the remarkable Ruins of St.
Paul’s. This magnificent and treasured icon of Macau is essentially a gate to nowhere, yet despite its withered look it's considered one of the greatest monuments to Christianity in the whole of the Asian continent.
(Old meets
new in the densely packed freguesias on
Macau Peninsula)
Much like how Stanley in Macau’s neighbouring metropolis can
transport the weary traveller to the charming dainty seaside towns of the
United Kingdom (despite the out-of-place hot and sunny weather that’s a rare
occurrence back home); Freguesia de Santo
Antόnio could easily be a parish on the Mediterranean coast. With its colonial-style housing, cobbled streets and baroque churches. Just swap the olive
oil-infused and seafood cuisine for a blend of Cantonese and Portuguese cooking
and add a little egg tart (dàn tǎ 蛋挞) onto your plate.
(Get those elbows at the ready – and hold your egg tarts up high
- to fight through the crowds)
(Escape the over-crowded freguesias into
a nearby church for that much needed peace and quiet.)
A stone's throw across the way from the Mediterranean freguesias Macau Peninsula, Taipa and Cotai islands are a completely contrasting sensation and
experience. With its humungous casinos and dazzling bright neon lights; the
Cotai Strip evokes the gangster-themed Hollywood blockbusters based in Las Vegas,
with less heists!
(The mammoth Venetian Macao)
However, it
couldn’t be “made in China” without the many knockoffs and imitations! The
Venetian Macao (apparently the largest casino in the world) houses a complete
replica, albeit pretty laughable, Venice; with B-movie prop styled canals,
coffeehouses and singing gondoliers escorting bored wives and girlfriends on
gondolas, while their men gamble away their savings nearby!
(Glitz and glam of the Cotai Strip)
(Ignore the
negativity from me; I actually quite enjoyed walking around the mammoth-sized
casinos and hotel-mall complexes. And when they all light up the Strip at
night, it’s definitely an Instagram worthy moment that’s not to be missed!)
I'll be back one day Macau; even if it's only for a box of egg tarts and the chance to freeload and get down and out in your megaresorts.